How to make ice cream at home according to a recipe from 1789

How to make ice cream at home according to a recipe from 1789

Gopi Desert Milkshake

Like gunpowder, compass and paper, ice cream was invented in China. A long time ago – thousands of years ago. Of course, this initial ice cream was just ice and crushed ice with the addition of juice and pieces of fruit (the Italians today call this mixture granita). But then in the East they guessed the preparation of cold drinks from koumiss or buffalo milk, flour and camphor – the resulting product really resembled a modern thick milkshake.

Cold drinks were prepared by both the Greeks and the Romans. True, the doctors led by Hippocrates hindered the Greeks (it was believed that cold food was bad for the stomach) and poisonings (snow was collected on the lower slopes of the mountains, it was polluted there). On hundreds of websites on the Internet you can find stories about how Emperor Nero sent slaves to the mountains to collect snow and ice for drinks for him, and brutally murdered them if they came back empty-handed. Most scholars believe that this is a myth (in any case, ice cream has nothing to do with it): the Romans learned from the bitter experience of the Greeks and knew that mountain snows could hide various infections. It is believed that sometimes they simply put bowls of drinks in the ice to cool them. But, on the other hand, there are Seneca’s “moral letters to Lucilus” – there he criticizes wealthy people who “melt snow in wine” (this seemed to him a banal luxury).

The Mongols poured milk and honey into liquor, carried it on horses and set off to the Gobi Desert (in winter temperatures there can reach minus 40). Milk shook on the horses’ backs, turned into cream and then froze, and the result turned out to be like ice cream … But in general, all this was not dangerous.

Who taught New Age Europeans to cook and eat “real ice cream”? According to a famous legend, the recipe was brought from China by Marco Polo, but this is unlikely: firstly, many scholars doubt that he was in China at all (there is a version about which he wrote his famous book based on the stories of other travelers), and secondly, there is no Mention of ice cream in the text. Another legend says that Catherine de Medici somehow captured the secret of making the product in the mid-16th century (but kept the recipe in the deepest secret). The third is that the modern ice cream maker was Bartolomeo Scapi (1500-1577), the personal chef of cardinals and several popes (indeed, he brought not gelato, as ice cream is called in Italian today, but jello, that is jelly with fruit additives – the matter It’s all about the fault of the unwary readers.) Fourth – the preparation of ice cream began at the court of Charles I, and the King of England paid the chef a pension for life, as long as he did not disclose the recipe …

According to legend, it was Marco Polo who served ice cream to Europeans, among other secrets of the East.  But this is just a beautiful fantasy.

According to legend, it was Marco Polo who served ice cream to Europeans, among other secrets of the East. But this is just a beautiful fantasy.

All these are fairy tales. In fact, in Europe they learned how to make ice cream once they guessed adding salt to crushed ice, and even better rock salt. After that, the ice, due to an endothermic reaction, turns into a natural freezer, providing a temperature well below zero. Then it remains to put another bowl of the creamy fruit mixture in a bowl with ice and salt, stirring it from time to time until the mixture is homogeneous. The process is quite long, but the result is considered by some to be the most delicious thing in the world.

Europeans began to seriously apply this wonderful technique in cooking only in the last third of the seventeenth century. Moreover, in the first fruit juices, water was frozen with the addition of aromatic essences and wine, and only after that they began to actively use the milk base. English ice cream – literally “ice cream” – is first mentioned in the description of the banquet held on May 28-29, 1671 at Windsor Castle.

30 yolks and a liter of syrup

It took many years for the dessert to gain real popularity. Caroline and Robin Weir, authors of the excellent book Ice Cream, Soft Drinks and Gelato: A Comprehensive Guide, write that the first set of sorbetto recipes appeared in Naples around 1695; There were only 12 pages and a description of 23 candies, “too complex even by modern standards.” And after a few decades, the French began to freeze the creamy mixture, after adding eggs there (for some reason it was called “frozen cheese”). Eggs soon replaced the actual cream (especially because it was cheaper): in one Italian recipe from the 18th century, he suggested freezing a mixture of 30 egg yolks, a liter of sugar syrup and a sprinkle of cinnamon, without adding anything else to it!

Today, anyone can make ice cream at home, but once the delicacy recipe is strictly protected ...

Today, anyone can make ice cream at home, but once the delicacy recipe is strictly protected …

picture: stock struggle

The legend that Charles I prompted his chef to keep his ice cream recipe secret has some basis – however, this has nothing to do with royalty. In 1789, London confectioner Frederick Nutt set out to publish a cookbook that included recipes for ice cream. Nata’s colleagues decided to participate and pay 1,000 pounds to him so that he refuses to publish. They were afraid that everyone who was not lazy afterwards would make ice cream, and they would be left without work. By the way, a thousand pounds of today’s money is equivalent to 25 thousand dollars! But the brave Nat resisted and nonetheless released his book (albeit at first without attribution).

Almost nothing prevents you today from making ice cream at home according to its recipe. It is necessary to mix 6 yolks and 220 grams of sugar, and at the same time heat “two bottles of good cream” (that is, fatty) in a saucepan with a thick bottom, adding to it the cut natural vanilla pod. When the cream boils, remove from heat and pour in the egg mixture in a thin stream, stirring all the time. Then pour everything together again into the pan and bring to a nearly boil again, stirring constantly again. Strain and pour into an ice cream maker (Nutt calls it “sabatiere”) and close the lid. Place the spadeer in a larger bowl filled with ice and salt to submerge in it. After a quarter of an hour, start spinning the spatter in this container, and continue to do so for 10 minutes. Then open the lid and mix the contents well with a spatula (the mixture should harden at the walls). Close the mixture again and put it in the ice, roll it up, then open it again and mix well, repeating until you get the ice cream. Note writes that one hour is enough for everything about everything.

By the way, this is no different from the recipe from the Stalinist “Book of Delicious and Healthy Food” of 1952. Are slightly more accurate proportions given: 3 cups of cream or milk – 1 1/4 cups of sugar, 3 eggs, 1/4 of vanillin powder , and for every 6-7 kg of snow – 1 kg of salt.

An early 19th century drawing depicting the British in Paris after the defeat of Napoleon.  It is clear that the guests are pleased with the local ice cream.

An early 19th century drawing depicting the British in Paris after the defeat of Napoleon. It is clear that the guests are pleased with the local ice cream.

picture: Click Global View

Some other facts

* The invention of paper ice cream cups is attributed to Italo Marchioni, who at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries sold lemonade from a kiosk in New York. At first, he put it in glasses that looked like whiskey glasses, but buyers stole them, and even if they returned, they had to be washed well. Then Marconi decided to make disposable paper cups. In 1903, he received a patent for a machine for its production. His proud descendants claim that he was also the first to invent the “ice cream sandwich” (a briquette in which ice cream is sandwiched between two waffles).

* Ice cream was invented in the mid-19th century, presumably in the town of Plumber-les-Bains. Russian and French ideas about ice cream are completely different. With us, it is just ice cream with a high percentage of milk fat and the addition of eggs. In France – a separate dessert: ice cream, to which is added almond extract and candied fruits soaked in kirch (that is, cherry distillate). Real ice cream is akin to Malaga ice cream, in which raisins soaked in Malaga or rum are added to it.

In the centuries that have passed since the invention of ice cream, dozens of its varieties have appeared. For example, creamy soft ice cream, which in America is called soft serve and is sold in most fast foods (its structure is provided by the fact that during the preparation process it is enriched with air and does not freeze to a completely solid state) . or Turkish dondurma (indeed, it is felt that all ice cream in Turkey is now called dondurma, but the real one is that which is prepared with sleep, flour from the roots of an orchid, like a wild orchid, preferably with mastic – the aromatic resin of the mastic tree).

June 10 is World Ice Cream Day.

June 10 is World Ice Cream Day.

picture: stock struggle

by the way

“Brain freeze”: why does the head hurt from a cold?

Ice cream (as well as, for example, cold milkshakes, or just ice water) can cause a severe headache if eaten quickly. True, this pain will pass soon. In English, there is an informal but well-established term for this effect – brain freeze (“brain freeze”), which was somehow patented for the purpose of using one manufacturer of the famous soft drink in advertising. Formally, in the medical language, this is called the neurovenous ganglion. Roughly speaking, the brain immediately reacts to a severe cold in the palate region, perceives this as a direct danger to itself and sends hot blood to nearby vessels; Because of this asymmetry, the front of the head begins to split. It is assumed that this is somewhat similar to the mechanism of occurrence of migraines: in any case, during experiments, it has been shown that cold often causes headaches in those who have previously experienced migraine pain. By the way, the same pain sometimes occurs in skiers or, for example, in those who, in case of severe frost, decided to ride a motorcycle, exposing their face to the wind and swallowing cold air. In order not to feel pain from the ice cream, just eat it slowly.

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